Just bought this book. I'm not a surfer, never have been (there aren't many breakers in Leeds), so I wasn't bothered about the lack of surf info. But there are great images and stories of one of those fascinating/doomed rich, young men.
The main reason for this post is to point you to this clip. It's great. GI
wahou ! how did I missed that book ?
ReplyDeletethks Gary !
Bunker the fool ...
ReplyDeletec'mon in the south guy's, we gonna do some surf sessions!