So says the Camino Steakhouse of their Alma Negra wine. Had I read the same description on a pack of a Waitrose coffee, it wouldn't sound any more believable. But used to describe Little Barrie's new album, Shadow, it's honest.
Little Barrie have matured since I last saw them at the above-a-pub venue that germinates stars, the Louisiana in Bristol. You can see them next on Tuesday 1 July, at the Purple Turtle in Camden, London. Hold that Lewis Wharton Bonneville Ride bass line in your nose and savour it. BP
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